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Trek In Solukhumbu Valley.....Gate Way To All 8000's...Everest..Lhotse..Ice Land Peaks....14th Day Onwards....

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Trek In Solukhumbu Valley..14th Day Onwards..

 
   
 
Day 14: Gokyo Ri summit Ascending...
 
We had an early start this morning waking up at 6.45am. We had a quick breakfast at 7.30 of Chapatti and 2 boiled eggs.The Gokyo Ri is renowned as the best spot for seeing the entire Everest range of mountains and we climbed early in the morning. The view was just amazing again, I wish I could explain the views in words but its impossible to describe, the colous for example. The sky changed color all the time, in the morning the sky was a very light blue and had gradations/bands of blue, even the clouds first thing had a mother of pearl sheen at their edges in the morning....
                                                                                        
Sunrise ..Early morning in Gokyo with Cho Oyo reflection on Gokyo's third lake.

I thought I might just head halfway up as that is where you get a glimpse of Everest. However, once we were half way Kaji kept coaxing me a little further and a little further till I was able to see the summit.It was painfully slow...and I had to take a breath after every 10 to 20 steps. I was panting and my legs were burning, but I decided to go the whole way up...and I was so glad I did. The whole trek up to Gokyo Ri was breathtaking. As we'd set out so early at first light, I was privileged to witness the sun rising over the mountains and casting its beautiful light over the lake causing the water to shimmer and sparkle in the sun.
                                                                                     
                        South face of Cho Oyo catches the morning sun.

By the time I reached the summit the sun was high in the sky and lit up the 360 degree views of the snow-capped peaks, the massive glacier and the 2nd and 3rd lakes of Gokyo that were visible from the summit. Some of the peaks visible included Everest, Lhotse, Cholotse and many others. The view from the summit is unlike anything else I've ever seen and I can quite honestly say that for me, this is the most beautiful place in the world. The sense of peace and calm at the top of the summit, looking down on the lake and glacier is a moment that I'll never forget.
                                                                           
                                          Jet stream over Everest..
While climbing up to Gokyo Ri the black pyramid of Mount Everest creates bizarre clouds in the jet stream.

unbelievable scenery of the remote Gokyo Valley as well as complimentary views of turquoise lakes, huge glaciers, and stunning mountain vistas that included Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu – four of the eight highest peaks on earth. The 360-degree view from Gokyo Ridge was lauded as the best in the Khumbu area....marvel at the Ngozumba glacier and enjoyed the 360° view of summits. This was a great place to spend one day hike....We reached @ the top of Gokyo Ri Summit...to view the scenic beauty of all the four 8000's.
                                                                             
                                     Everest north west from Gokyo Ri
Close-up of Mount Everest and its north face from Gokyo Ri; the main route from the Tibetan side follows up the left shoulder.
                                                                             
Panorama Gokyo Ri with 4 peaks over 8'000 meters (Cho Oyo, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu), and countless others almost as high. Gokyo and its lodges lie at the foot of the blue lake at the right.
                                                                             
                                     Everest with prayer flags from Gokyo Ri
From Gokyo Ri... The views of Everest and Lhotse are stunning; revealing more than Kala Patthar even though not being as close as from Kala Patthar.
                                                                            
Clouds often move in at noon; time to return to the lodge and enjoy a lazy afternoon.

We had spectacular views of sun set over all the beautiful peaks in the gokyo valley...the stunning lakes..glaciers in the Gokyo valley...We were speechless to view the stunning beauty of Hinalayan Nature..
                                                                            
                                  View From The Summit Of Gokyo Ri..
                                                                       
                         Last Light On Everest..from Gokyo Ri..(5360m)
                                                                      
                                               Sun set viewed From Gokyo Ri...
                                                                        
                                      Sun Set on Everest..From Gokyo Ri..
                                                                           
                                                     Sunset Cho Oyo
Sunset on Cho Oyo rising over the evening fog that is blown up the Gokyo valley.

After viewing the sunset last tie at the summit... we started the decent, which took 1.5 hours...We also came across the Canadians resting about halfway up the summit.They'd decided that this was far enough and weren't going to the top.we reached the lodge  I stopped for a half hour rest and a refuel of chapatti and tea....It Was half past 6 p.m.We were already so tired that everybody was feeling to sleep early without having dinner..but after having some tea we felt refreshed again and decided to gather in the common room of the lodge to have some talk,,games...until dinner...We were back with great views and simple but tasty food; the wind was howling in the evening  and after a tough trek there was nothing more cozy than to enjoy a great meal and taking a nap after wards....
                                                                              
                                                  Gokyo lodge dinner..

Day 15:Gokyo Lakes Region (4740m) To  Ren Jo La..Thame..

We woke up at 6.15am..I had breakfast at 7a.m.of plain chapatti and 1 boiled egg.
We headed out at 7.30am with a steep uphill section for around 1 hour. The rest of the way was then a mixture of uphill and flat sections. Somewhere along the way I managed to slip and fall in the mud, landing hard on my shoulder and jarring it. I ended up with mud stained clothes which eventually was able to be dusted off as it dried off. My shoulder however was going to pain me for the rest of the trip.
                                                                                
                       Sun rise On Lhotse..Viewed From Gokyo Valley...

After 2 hours of walking we reached the second of the Gokyo lakes... Taboche Tsho..This lake is very beautiful. It is clear with lots of chorten stones set up around it. I was so excited that we had reached the lakes as this is the part of the trek I am most excited to see. We stopped to take lots of photos and have a snack.
We reached the first  lake about 20 minutes later...Lonponga Tsho..This lake is smallest in all the 3 lakes and a much deeper turquoise in color. Again this lake was beautiful..
                                                                                   
yak grazing @ Gokyo lake..cholatse in the back ground..
Yak grazing near the 3rd lake of Gokyo.
                                                                                     
Panorama of Hungchi west face, though "only" 7'036 m high; 
                                                                                    
                                            Gyachung Kang Hungchi
Some smaller lakes in the area offer reflections of stunning peaks.

After about 2 hours we arrived @ The second pass, the Renjo La,revealed a last view of the giants; then we headed it into the Thame valley. Gentians and edelweiss dot the hillsides again with a backdrop of ice-fluted flanks..The descent into the Thame Valley was steep and long. The whole day took me 7 hours but I felt fine..It was 4.30 in the evening..and we needed rest...We had our stop @ Thame...In a small beautiful lodge..
                                                                                  
                                       Sunset cholatse
The very top of Cholatse rises above the mist in the evening.
                                                                               
Lodge in Thame, owned by Kappa Sherpa. He has the world record reaching the top of Mount Everest 11 times.Thame is a small village in Nepal located close to Mount Everest. It is on the salt trading route that existed between Tibet, Nepal and India. Many Sherpa live in the village and it is the home of Apa Sherpa, who holds the world record for summiting Everest 19 times. It was also a childhood home of Tenzing Norgay, who was (with Sir Edmund Hillary) one of the first men to climb Mt Everest.


Thame is a small village in Nepal located close to Mount Everest. It is on the salt trading route that existed between Tibet, Nepal and India. Many Sherpa live in the village and it is the home of Apa Sherpa, who holds the world..Thame is the last outpost on the ancient trading route over the Nangpa La Pass between Tibet and Nepal..At 6 p.m. we headed to the local first aid hut where they give daily talks on Mountain Sickness. It was really interesting to listen to and they covered a lot of useful information like symptoms to look out for and what to do in each situation. They also talked to us about a porter protection program at the clinic where they have bedding available for porters if required.After the talk we headed back to the lodge for dinner of fried potato with garlic and cheese.We  went to bed @ 8.30 p.m.
                                                                                
                                         Cho Oyo and reflection
Last view of Cho Oyo before leaving from the Renjo La pass.

Day:16..To..Machermo..Dole...

Woke up at 6am after having trouble sleeping last night, partly due to altitude..Had a breakfast of a pancake with jam and 2 boiled eggs.We were headed to Machermo which is a 3 hour uphill hike from Dole. We couldn't go further than Machermo because of the altitude increase.Machermo is at 4470m, and considering we had already skipped one night of acclimatisation in Thame so  we didn't want to risk skipping another acclimatisation night.The trek to Machermo was breathtaking. Today had been our first day of perfectly crystal clear blue skies and everywhere we looked there were snow capped peaks surrounding us. The landscape has changed quite dramatically from the pine forests leading into Namche Bazaar. At this altitude, the land was a lot more barren. There were no trees, just little shrubs (lots of juniper that is burned as incense) and lots of open space, dirt and rocks. The views were awe inspiring and we couldn't help singing along the way. 
                         
                                                          Gentians....
Nepal gentians; a little more round than the species from the Swiss alps.

We arrived at Machermo early in the day at 11am and checked into the Yeti Lodge. We had the rest of the day at our leisure to relax. It is a really picturesque spot we are in with the snow caps in the background and a river running through the village.We sat out in the front yard reading and enjoying being in the sunshine.We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting outside, playing cards and reading.some porters have been mistreated by their employers and were not always provided with shelter to sleep. Some had slept by the river in the freezing cold. I couldn't believe that some of them had been treated like that and was flabbergasted that the average rate of pay is approx700 rupees per day.  Apparently the biggest offenders are the large trekking companies who try and pay even less than this and don't always supply the cold weather gear required.These guys work so hard and do it for such little pay with a smile on their faces....it's so unfair that they are treated like that. Luckily,more awareness has spread regarding the issue and porters are treated much more fairly these days and supplied with all the basic needs..
                                                                     
Langmuche peak rising above fields of gentians; the side valley does not see many tourists and is a good side trip from the main route back to Namche Bazaar.

After coming back from there @ 5.30p.m.we had tea..cakes...some noodles...and gathered in the front common room to view the sun set on the mountain peaks surrounding..We had a beautiful evening..splendid..We enjoyed the sunset as we were not tired at all..We again spent time by playing cards...reading..talking...@ 8.30 p.m. we went to bed..
                                                                    
                                             Sunrise Phaniyo Shar...
                      Sunrise on the steep flanks from Thame....

Day 17:Dole To Namche Bazar Vis Khumjung...

This morning we woke at 6.15 and had breakfast at 7a.m. (2 boiled eggs, a pancake, toast, fried potato and Masala tea) – I was stuffed.We headed out at 7.30 am and after about an hour of walking got our first glimpses some snow capped peaks...YAY. It wasn't a perfectly clear day, but it was sunny and clear enough for us to see Ama Dablam and Everest way off in the distance. We got so excited 'woo hooing' over seeing the last snow caps....now we really felt like we are back in the EBC..
                                                                                           
                           Ama Dablam @ Sunrise On The Way To Dole..

We stopped for lunch at Phortse Tenga at 11.30. I had a massive plate of fried noodles that I barely got through half of (especially after my enormous breakfast). Phortse Tenga is at an altitude of 3680m and medically speaking we should have stopped here overnight as you are only meant to increase your sleeping altitude by around 300-400m each day. However, we skipped this and kept going straight to Dole (at 4200m – which is an increase of over 700m in sleeping altitude in one day from Namche Bazaar).
                                                                                      
                                              Phortse-a lovely village..

 In addition Saila told us there are 38 Everest summiters there, almost every house has one. Our lodge owner had summited Everest 7 times.Phortse is a Sherpa village situated at 3840m in the Solu Khumbu District of Nepal and within the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. Phortse is primarily a farming village with its chief crop being potatoes and buckwheat.in the trekking season its men folk, mainly, are employed as trekking Sherpas and Sirdars, mountain guides. Whilst the women folk, Sherpani, look after the family, tend the yaks, land and run the lodges. Phortse was the highest village off the Dudh Koshi River until trekking in the area opened up the once seasonal pasture villages of Dole, Machhermo and Gokyo..
                                                                                      
                                                village near lungden
Summer settlements of farmers in the upper Thame valley.

We finally reached Dole (4200m altitude) at around 3 p.m. after lots of uphill walking and checked into the Alpine Cottage lodge. As it was overcast and the sun was disappearing fast it was totally freezing so we huddled in the common room to try and stay warm.Dinner was veggie noodle soup. During dinner we saw the sun setting outside and ran out to get a look at the amazing view. The peaks of Kantega and Thamserku looked spectacular, shrouded in mist with the setting sun reflecting off their snow covered peaks.
                                                                                    
                                                       Sunset Thamserku..
              Last rays of the sun hit the flanks of Thamserku.

Dole is a small village in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It lies in the Dudh Kosi River valley just north of Khumjung and south of Machhermo at an altitude of 4038m (it is incorrectly listed as 4200m on many trekking maps). Dole is often a stopping point for trekkers on their way to Sagarmartha (Mount Everest) via the Gokyo Ri route. Its primary function is to support the tourism industry and as such consists of a number of guesthouses.
                                                                                   
                                                              Lodge in Dole..

We spent the afternoon playing playing cards in the common room..Dinner was veggie noodle soup. During dinner we saw the sun setting outside and ran out to get a look at the amazing view. The peaks of Kanchenjunga and Thamserku looked spectacular, shrouded in mist with the setting sun reflecting off their snow covered peaks.
Standing out side looking at these mountains, we had  been given a taste of the beauty still to come....and I couldn 't wait! We were exhausted and in bed by 8pm...
                                                                                      
The last light of day touches the summits of Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest peak at 8586 meters -28,169 feet.Mount Kanchenjunga, one of the world's most spectacular mountains and the third highest peak of the world, is also known as the 'Queen of Mountains' and boasts of its varied ecological zones, from the subtropical land to glacial wilderness. Mighty Kanchenjunga glacier has been long known as the most famous attraction of Kanchenjunga. Great valleys, encompassed by high peaks, are yet another enticing feature of Kanchenjunga

This morning we woke at 6am and I had a massive breakfast of fried egg, chapatti, potato roti and masala tea. Along with this I was served a 'hot orange juice'. I had asked for orange juice and expected a cold or room temp beverage, but was instead served a really sweet orange cordial served hot. A bit strange at first....but quite nice actually.We started trekking this morning at 7.30am heading to the next destination of Namche Bazaar. We had been told that today would be a day of mainly uphill climbing so braced ourselves for a tough day. After 2 hours of walking we arrived at the one of many suspension bridges...We walked till 11 a.m.when we stopped for lunch @ Khumjung next to a really high suspension bridge. I had veg momos....
                                                                                         
                                  A bridge we crossed over Dudh Kosi river..

Landscapes we had seen were amazing. The scenery in these lowlands at around 2500 – 3500m was very dramatic...much like the pine forests of Uttarakhand. Our route had been surrounded by pine trees and the path followed curving and crisscrossing over the gushing Dudh Kosi river. Every where we look there were waterfalls, streams and beautiful pine forests...it was just like walking through a postcard or storybook...
                                                                                     
                                         Sun rays over Kangtega
  The sun will rise over Kangtega and Thamserku any moment.

The village of Khumjung is not directly on the main trail to the most popular trekking destinations, but to the devout Tibetan Buddhists in the region it is considered a focal point for their faith and it has been a great beneficiary of the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation. It is said that the valley was once a lake but the water broke long ago, and Tibetans moved into the area over 300 years ago. Khumjung sits in a high valley that is a steep hike of over an hour above the shopping mecca of Namche and is at the base of the holy mountain, Khumbila. Khumjung ismuch more traditional in contrast to the more modern and touristy hub of Namche to the south. Surround the valley further are the snowy peaks of Kongde and Thamserku, and the famous Everest View hotel is tucked away discretely around a hill to the south.                                                                                      
                                                                                      
                                                    Khumjung Village...

After lunch we continued walking, but this time unfortunately it was all uphill (way too much 'ukalo'). There was about 3 hours of switchbacks all the way up to Namche Bazaar at 3440m in altitude. We finally arrived at Namche Bazaar at around 2pm, exhausted after all the uphill and starting to feel the light-headedness that comes with being above 3000m. We checked into the Holiday Hotel..home for this night...nice corner rooms so that we were able to have get again a glimpse of the snow-capped peaks that tower over Namche Bazaar.Once we were settled in we went for a wander around the shops in Namche..
                                                                     
                                                 Sunset Kangtega
                        The upper part of Kangtega in the evening sky.

Namche Bazaar is the largest village in the Everest Region.It's a trading hub and all the people from villages around this area come to Namche to do their trades. The city itself is beautiful with perfectly constructed houses, all uniform in shape and brightly colored..This village is also a mandatory tourist stop for anyone trekking through this region. There are dozens of shops selling local wares....where you can buy anything from toilet paper, to peanut butter, to down jackets to calendars. There's even a couple of German bakeries and a bar with a pool table.
                                                                             
                                      Namche Bazar with the Tibetan market.

For dinner, I had a vegetarian spring roll (like a pastie) with hot chips and garlic soup..
                                                                             
                                                         Nightfall Ama Dablam
Nightfall on Ama Damblam and it is time to get back to the warm lodge and enjoy a hot dinner.

After dinner we played cards and also met a dutch lady who had had to end her trek here at Namche due to altitude sickness. She had planned to go to Everest Base camp but couldn't go any further so was waiting for the rest of her group to pick her up from Namche on their return. We also met an Austrian couple and a Canadian father and son in law. The father is 77....we were completely in awe and full of respect for him.....Bedtime tonight at 9.30p.m

Day 18..Namche ...Phakding...Lukla..Kathmandu...

We all woke up at 6 a.m. so that we would be ready to leave at 7 a.m.to leave for Phakding...we set off for a 3 hour trek to Phakding which is at an altitude of 2700m. Most of the trek today was flat with only a few uphill sections.Along the way we passed the first of many Buddhist monuments scattered along the path.
The mountains in this part of Nepal are dotted with Buddhist relics everywhere....from prayer flags, to chortens to stupas. Where ever you are in this part of Nepal, it is impossible not to feel and be affected by the deep spirituality of the region.
                                                                                                          
                                                       Sun over Kantega
                     The early rays slowly climb up over the ridge.

After 3 hours of trek we arrived at Phadking..Had our lunch..experienced a big vacuum as we were on our last trail...feeling very upset as our journey was going to end in some hours..While trekking from phakding to Lukla we tried to get as much as snaps..glimpses of the Himalayan 8000 giants..while walking along the trail...
                                                                       
                                               Everest and Ama Dablam ..
Last view of the giants of the Khumbu before entering the low valleys towards Lukla.

After 3 hours of trekking we arrived finally in Lukla to catch our flight to Kathmandu.....At the airport it was total chaos. There were no queues, just piles and piles of equipment for expeditions scattered all over the airport and people everywhere.We boarded the tiny plane and crossed our fingers we weren't going to crash. Before long we were up in the air and looking down on the lush green valleys of Nepal and the beautiful snow capped mountains. We were blessed with perfectly clear blue skies, so the flight turned out to be really smooth (more so than our flight over)..                                                                   
                                                        Flanks Chukung Peak
               Stunning flanks of peaks surrounding Ama Damblam.

We landed in Kathmandu in less than an hour...Finally we arrived at kathmandu...We successfully completed our Everest Base Camp Trek..with lots of troubles..sickness..difficulties and were feeling very proud to be succeeded..Now it was time to prepare for the next trek of Annapurna Circuit Trek..A difficult one again.but till now can't forget the splendid landscapes of the trek..fabulous sun rises..sunsets..the mighty Dudh Koshi River..The great suspension bridges over Dudh Koshi...the Himalayan Giants..8000's..Splendid Everest..Khumbu valley..Kala Patthar..Gokyo Ri..Chola Pass...Khumbu Glacier...I wish I could live their the rest of my Life..Good Bye...Everest..Good By..Kathmandu..We will be back again for Annapurna Circuit Trek..
    
                                    Last light on the summit of Everest.


Natural objects themselves, even when they make no claim to beauty,excite the feelings, and occupy the imagination. Nature pleases, attracts,delights, merely because it is nature. We recognize in it an Infinite Power

Trek In Solukhumbu Valley.....Gate Way To All 8000's...Everest..Lhotse..Ice Land Peaks....10th Day Onwards.....

Published by Mitaraj under , , , , , , , , , , , on 2:18 AM
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Trek In Solukhumbu Valley..10th Day Onwards

Day 10... Lobuche (4,940m)- Gorak Shep (5,170m) ...


A long, tough trek. We descended slightly from Lobuche onto the Khumbu glacier. The trail almost disappears here, so the best way to go is to follow the yak poo, as there are frequent yak trains headed to Base Camp with supplies everyday. We saw the yellow tents of Base Camp in the distance and got very excited. As we approached Gorak Shep there were a seemingly endless amount of hills to ascend, traverse and descend which was tough going.

                                        On the way to Gorak Shep at 5140m.

Gorak Shep is a frozen lake bed covered with sand that sits at 5,164m (approximately 17,000 vertical feet) near Mount Everest. It is the final acclimatization stop on most common treks to Everest Base Camp from Lukla, following what the Dalai Lama dubbed "the steps to heaven." This route takes trekkers from Lukla to Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pangboche, Dingboche, Lobuche and on to Gorak Shep. Most trekkers stay overnight there, as their trekking permits will not allow them to camp at Base Camp. Also, Gorak Shep provides the best "launching pad" for an ascent of Kala Patthar, which looks like a giant dune looming over the lakebed. For many trekkers, summitting Kala Patthar provides both the best views of Everest, and the highest altitude that most will reach without a climbing permit. Gorak Shep means Dead Ravens..We got there before lunch though and settled into a really nice lodge which was much warmer than those in Lobuche and Dingboche. Gorak Shep is a really nice collection of lodges and tea houses in a sheltered valley facing Kala Patthar


 
                                   Lodge @ Gorak Shep Where We Stayed..

Day 11... Base Camp Day! Gorak Shep (5,170m)- Everest Base Camp (5,360m)...

We woke up with a bad news..yesterday,a Spanish team climbing Pumori had gotten hit by a massive avalanche. They lost five of their team members. And just before we arrived in Gorak Shep for lunch, a woman had been injured in a freak rockfall on Kala Pattar; we witnessed the helicopter rescue as we climbed that afternoon. We also watched a fit young American couple, nice people who had been trekking at our pace for several days, walked away from Kala Patthar when they realized they couldn't cope with the altitude.

A hard lesson from the Himalayas: even if you want to help, sometimes there's absolutely nothing you can do..


 
Looking from Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar and mount Pumori in the back ground...


We met Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who holds the current world record for the fastest ascent of Everest- an incredible 8 hours from Base Camp.He has also climbed Everest 3 times in 5 days without supplemental oxygen. I couldn't believe how lucky we were to meet him. He is heading for the summit again this year with an all women Nepali expedition who we also met at our lodge in Gorak Shep. A very exciting morning and we hadn't even started to walk yet!

 
Everest summit clouds...Mount Everest; a massive black pyramid; fog lies like a veil on its summit.


Willpower was the only thing that got us to Base Camp. It was a hell of a walk, along a knife edge ridge, and hopping across boulders on the Khumbu glacier. It was the most physically testing day of the whole trek and it tested us mentally too. We made slow progress and it took us about 3 1/2 hours to get there, with only a couple of rest stops en route..

 
Khumbu Glacier seen on the way to the Everest Base Camp..


The huge Khumbu Glacier flows between Mount Everest and the Lhotse-Nuptse Ridge and is constantly moving.The Khumbu Glacier is situated between Mount Everest and the Lhotse-Nuptse Ridge. It begins in the Western Cwm, flows down between the two mountains, and swerves to the right through the Khumbu valley. As it melts, the Khumbu Glacier drains into Nepal’s Lobujya (Lobuche) River. Mount Everest is continuously being eroded by the glacier.


 
The beauty of Nuptse, its west face a stunning sight...From Gorak Shep..


It was worth every step though and the pain of the labor intensive trek was soon forgotten when we arrived at the the base camp of the world's highest mountain. Base Camp is a crazy crazy place. This year, there are over 45 expeditions there with about 1,000 people living at base camp for 3 months. We were hungry so first stop was the bakery. Can you believe it?! A bakery! And some bakery it was too. The man was a genius and served us up the best apple tart I've ever had (just out of the oven) and a well deserved cup of tea. We spent the next hour and a half checking out the base camp scene. It was a lively place with music blaring from tents, excited chatter and it felt quite chilled out.


 
Sun Rise on Nuptse, 7879 meters, as seen from Kala Patthar..


We walked to the edge of the camp to the base of the dreaded Khumbu Ice fall. This is the most dangerous part of the ascent to the summit and is where most fatalities on Everest have occurred. Climbers must tackle it early in the morning before the ice starts to melt and releases blocks of ice the size of houses. It is a pretty impressive sight from Base Camp and must be extremely intimidating for climbers.Everest is a shy mountain. It's hidden from Khumbu trekkers by the massive Lhotse and Nuptse ridges, which are smaller, but big enough to eclipse Everest unless you climb high enough to get a peek.

 
                 The Khumbu Ice fall at Everest Base Camp 18,500'ft


By the time we reached the lodge, we were absolutely wrecked. I have never known such tiredness! I somehow managed to summon the energy to make a 2 minute call home to let the family know we had made it and were in good form. It was early to bed and a happy, content sleep followed.


Everest and Nuptse\Lhotse south face at sunset, from Gorak Shep...

Day 12... Gorak Shep (5,170m) - Kala Patthar Summit (5,600m) - Pheriche (4,280m)...

 
I woke up at 6am feeling very low on energy and generally exhausted.I resigned myself to the fact that I wasn't going to be able to attempt Kala Patthar as I was too shattered from the day before.We also planned to descend to Pheriche today to give our bodies a break from the altitude and that was going to be a long and difficult trek. We had breakfast together and I started to think that I might be able to give Kala Patthar a go..

 
                        Everest Base camp on the Khumbu Glacier..


I found it very difficult at the start, the slope was steep and I was tired. I soon got into a rhythm though, and from then on it was just a matter of putting one foot in front of the other.The summit seemed so far away and for ages I felt like I wasn't getting any closer to it. I could see the prayer flags flapping in the wind at the summit, but they just weren't getting closer. I kept going nonetheless and finally made it to the lower summit at 5,554m


 
                            Everest Base camp on the Khumbu Glacier...


Kala Patthar doesn't have a proper summit, being basically a ridge up to Pumori, but we got to a local maximum of sorts that most people consider the "summit." It was strung with prayer flags; with a little stretching, it afforded us a glimpse of two turquoise-colored glacial lakes below the Pumori glacier., Kala Patthar is a rocky brown hill a few distance away from Gorakh Shep, EBC. Kala Patthar offers close views of the mighty Mt. Everest, Pumori Peak, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and other Himalayan giants.
There is a flat ground or plateau lying at an elevation of 17,982 feet/ 5,242m, which serves as an ideal place for helicopters to land.


                                View From Kala Patthar...@ Sun Rise..


The real summit was still a few minutes away and involved some steep scrambling over boulders. I was so determined at this stage, but also in a lot of pain- my chest was really sore and my throat was extremely dry from trying to breathe in the dry air. My lungs felt empty and I couldn't get a full deep breath. I persevered anyway and slowly lifted my legs over the boulders. A long ten minutes later I was standing on the summit and a French guy congratulated me.

 
                             Mt.Everest at Sunrise from Khumbu Glacier.


It took us two hours to reach Base Camp (17600 Feet) from GorakShep in all.... To get there we continued along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacierin pain..difficulties... with spectacular views of the Khumbu Ice Fall, Mt. Everest, and Base Camp, Most of us had tears in our eyes when we saw the serene beauty all around, all the hard work has paid, we were all overjoyed and could not control the joy, we all hugged each other for minutes.My will power won over my physical ailments..difficulties...

 
                                On Way To Kala Patthar Below Pumori

                                   Mount Everest... Nuptse...
View from Kala Patthar; 5'545 m; on the Everest glacier (base camp at the very left); the beginning of the icefall leading to the south col; Everst's summit hidden in high fog; Lhotse to the right of the south col and Nuptse at the very right.

I looked down to see Sunil pumping his arm in the air congratulating me too and he joined me on the summit about 10 minutes later exhausted, but thrilled that we both made it. The wind started to pick up around us, and the prayer flags were flapping violently. We knew we didn't have much time to take photos as the temperature was dropping rapidly. We had to take our gloves off to operate the cameras properly which was extremely painful! After about 10 minutes up there together, we ran down as fast as we could to warm up. It was all very thrilling and it wasn't until we got below the lower summit that we began jumping up and down in celebration! Fantastic! 

 
Summit Everest...Then the fog lifts; and reveals the south saddle and the entire upper part.


It had taken us about 2 hours to get to the top but the descent was easy, and we soon warmed up as we moved quickly down the mountain. Ramesh was waiting for us at the bottom, waiting to hear the news. When we told him we got to the summit, he looked very surprised and responded with his most commonly used phrase, "Are you sure sir?" Yes we're bloody sure Ramesh! He was just surprised that we had made it up and down so fast. After a quick lunch we left Gorak Shep at 11am. By the time we reached Lobuche, the jubilation had diminished somewhat and I was bordering on physical exhaustion. 

 
                                 Prayer flags on top of the Kala Patthar...


This descent was proving to be the most difficult part of the whole trek for me so far. I really found it challenging. After leaving Thuklha we trekked through a beautiful valley..While looking up we saw giant snow covered Ama Dablam..I somehow managed to make it to pheriche and flopped into bed at 4pm. Just ate a sandwich in bed and slept soundly until 7am the next morning. In total we descended 1,300m that day. 


 
Avalanche near Everest base camp..There are two base camps on opposite sides of Mt. Everest: to the South in Nepal, and to the North in Tibet.

Day 13:Crossing over Cho La Pass..5400m..Over On To Gokyo Valley...

We had planned to head out as early as possible as it’s safer to cross Cho La Pass prior to the sun hitting it and making the ice/snow slippery.This day was the most physically exhausting day of my life. We ended up trekking for over 11 hours at an altitude of over 5300m.we then set off trudging through the deep snow, making snow angels and writing our names along the way. We walked for 2 hours until we arrived at Dzongla for lunch. On the way to Dzongla we were surrounded by spectacular scenery. We walked through a valley surrounded by snow capped giants We walked for about an hour and a half to get to the base of Cho La Pass..


 
On the way to the Cho La; looking back east from where we came; once you reach this part it's a stroll through the snow.


The pass looked incredibly steep and scary and we were particularly nervous as a porter had been killed on the pass due to rockfalls a few weeks earlier. I looked up the pass really questioning if I had the energy to make the 700m ascent. I was tired enough just traversing over the glacier, that by the time I got to the bottom and looked up at it I just wanted to sit down and cry.I either had to climb up this thing or we would have to turn back and go an alternate route that would add an extra day of travel. So, summing up all the strength and courage I could find I slowly struggled and panted my way up..


 
                      We are almost at the pass...on the big snowfield.


I had to stop every 5 or 6 steps to catch my breath and the I could feel the lactic acid buildup in my legs....it was painful. I refused to look up or down (I didn’t want to see how much further I had to climb and I didn’t want to scare myself looking down at the steep drop). I just kept my head down and looked at my feet and plonked one foot in front of the other. At this point in my head I just kept saying....’one more step’, 'one more step’ etc. There were a couple of slippery sections and eventually I made it to the top of Chola pass (at an altitude of 5440m) completely spent. 


 
         Crossing Cho La...Stunning last part of the Cho La pass.


We stopped to savor the achievement of making it up there in one piece and admired the views.At the top of the pass we were surrounded by deep snow and spotted some snow leopard tracks in the distance. The mountains around us were breathtaking and stretched on forever. It really was a spectacular place to be. As we took in the surroundings, we ate our cold toasts and boiled eggs to refuel.Cho La Pass.Cho La Pass, situated at an elevation of 5,440 metres (17 780 feet), is a steep pass that can require some advanced trekking and mountaineering experience. While not technically difficult, it is steep and may require glacial crossing. From the Cho La Pass, trekkers typically descend into Gokyo Valley. 


 
Cho La Pass.Cho La Pass, situated at an elevation of 5,440 m


After crossing Cho La pas we descended into the Gokyo Valley and Gokyo Village..We pressed on and descended the steep decline, it was very icy luckily no snow and had to be very careful with our descent one loose footing could result in a nasty tumble abruptly stopped by one of many massive boulders on the path. Eventually the land levels out and its pretty much plain sailing for the rest of the day to Gokyo. Gokyo is a remote village sitauted next to a holy lake at 4,800m next to it is a peak Gokyo Ri ..


 
The Cho La Pass (5440m) connects the beautiful Gokyo valley (to Gokyo Ri) to the Khumbu Valley (to Kalar Pattar


Gokyo valley is dominated by Cho Oyo, 8'201 m, and Nepal's largest glacier.The lodges of Gokyo lie at the turquoise glacial lake, and in addition just an hour above lies the Gokyo Ri viewpoint: an amazing spot to see 4 peaks above 8'000 meters, marvel at the Ngozumpa glacier and enjoy the 360° view of summits. This a great place to spend some days exploring; a day hike up the glacier to the feet of Cho Oyo reveals more glacial lakes and views of Gyachung Kang and Hungchi.We reached Gokyo @ 2.30 p.m.and checked into our room for the night at the Lakeside Lodge (altitude of 4790m in altitude). The 3rd lake(Dudh Pokhari) is unbelievably beautiful and I was totally ecstatic to be here. The blue of the water didn't look real and with the snow capped peaks in the background I couldn’t imagine a more beautiful place in the world.

 
Gokyo is a small hamlet of stone houses and stone walled pastures which nestles on the lateral morraine of the Ngozumba Glacier.


After lunch I walked down to the lake edge and sat on a rock admiring the view. I’d brought my book to read, but I couldn’t take my eyes off the lake and the mountain in the background. I was so at peace and content sitting there basking in the sun. In the afternoon as the sun went down it got quite cold so I reluctantly went inside the common room.

 
Gokyo Village and Dudh Pokhari (lake) with Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m) in the background

Dinner that night was another plain pancake with jam...We all were so exhausted by the trek so we could not eat anything more...but tomorrow we planned for the Gokyo Ri summit ascend to view the spectacular sunrise on the 8000's...so we were in bed by 7.30pm ..Good Night Gokyo...

 
The 3rd Lake of Goyko...named Dudh Pokhari..Largest Lake Of The 3 In Gokyo 

"I believe that the universe is one being, all its parts are different expressions of the same energy, and they are all in communication with each other, therefore parts of oneorganic whole."

                                       Continued..
 

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The Perfect Way knows no difficulties
Except that it refuses to make preferences;
Only when freed from hate and love,
It reveals itself fully and without disguise;
A tenth of an inch's difference,
And heaven and earth are set apart;
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